03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

Latest post 05-14-2008 9:49 AM by candi_medic1. 23 replies.
  • 03-21-2008 8:21 PM

    03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Had a chance to run Gillette and Tip Top and was pleasantly surprised by the scenery and history of the area.

    The Tip Top Mine was founded around 1875 and had about 1200 people there at its peak. There were stores, saloons, laundry, bath houses and many other structures.

    About 9 miles southeast of Tip Top a town called Gillette sprang up to support the mine's silver production. Gillette had a reputation as an untamed town and all reports seem to indicate a place bustling with activity. It was also a waypoint along the Phoenix to Prescott stagecoach.

    On our trip we headed northwest from the Table Mesa exit we crossed the Agua Fria River in a pretty area that I wouldn't mind coming back to for some exploring up and down river. The crossing was about 45-50 feet across and 12-15 inches deep, which I suspect is about as high as it normally gets outside of actual floods. Once across the river we got to the old townsite (or ghost town) of Gillette. There's not much there now on this flat area beside the river. Small roads traverse the area and we encountered a family and guide on an ATV tour. The only thing really standing there now is the old Burfind Hotel and livery which lies in ruins.

    Continuing northwest, we cruised through some very nice, green country along the Boulder and Cottonwood creeks which were flowing. We spotted a yellow hummer way up ahead... maybe another tour type thing. It was about this time, while trying to go up a small side road, when I became angry... and a little nervous. I finally realized I HAD NO 4 WHEEL! I had taken my truck to Lee Myles the other day to get a clutch replacement, and I guess they did something. Well, nice time to find out... 

    Anyways, the roads weren't that bad... probably 2.0-2.5 so I had no issues along the way. We made it to Tip Top and actually went another third of a mile to the Seventysix Mine as well. There are dozens of old crumbling stone walls and foundations sprinkled throughout the little canyon along here. We spent over 2 hours just climbing around and exploring the area. There were vertical and horizontal shafts as well as various other cuts and scrapes. Afterwards we settled in the shade by the creek to soak our heads and eat some grub. Very nice.

     

    This is where the old townsite of Gillette used to be along the Agua Fria River

     

    The Burfind Hotel of Gillette

     

    The creeks were flowing near the Tip Top Mine

     

    This is the main tailings area of Tip Top along with the foundation for the old mill

     

     

  • 03-21-2008 8:52 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Sounds like a nice day for a drive.  Might have to take a family picnic to the area.  Glad you found time to get out and enjoy yourself...

    Did you get your 4-wheel back?  What did they say?

    Hope you are back and rolling with the gang soon, we miss you!  At this point I miss all of us going out, it has been too long!

    DD

    Pirate Queen
  • 03-21-2008 11:11 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Pirate Queen:

    Sounds like a nice day for a drive.  Might have to take a family picnic to the area.  Glad you found time to get out and enjoy yourself...

    Did you get your 4-wheel back?  What did they say?

    Hope you are back and rolling with the gang soon, we miss you!  At this point I miss all of us going out, it has been too long!

    DD

    Sounds nice - one of these days you will have to Trail Boss us out there so we can check it all out ourselves. Hopefully you took some pics to post with your write up? Did I just say that - AzTacoma out off-roading without his camera - never happen.

    JD

    2004 JEEP Rubicon a.k.a. "Ruby"

    Just Exploring Everything Possible 

  • 03-22-2008 1:23 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Here is some neat info from an excerpted article (from http://www.mrquigleyphotography.com/articles.htm) that tells a bit about Gillette... for those who like this sort of stuff. 

    ""Just over a mile from Lake Pleasant Park lies the ghost town of Gillette. This is one ghost town that has always amazed me. It always pops up in old newspaper accounts and seems to have been a busy and lively town. Wyatt Earp and many other well known Arizonans passed this way. What I find amazing is how a town so well known to Arizona history can die with so little remaining.

    Gillette earned a reputation as a lawless Western town. By March 1878, three men had already been killed in saloon gunfights. Through the years, the ladies of Gillette tried to turn it into a civilized town by holding town socials and inviting traveling preachers, but without much success. Gillette served as a well-used stage stop. It also had a large and busy gold/silver mill that ran a profitable operation. The area’s miners, cowboys and stage drivers spent a lot of time in the town’s several saloons.

    Several times the towns blacksmith managed to hold up the Wells Fargo stagecoach in Squaw Creek Canyon a few miles north of Gillette. By the time the stage arrived in town, the blacksmith would be back in his shop busily occupied with his blacksmithing trade. The blacksmith was eventually caught.

    On June 12, 1878, two killings and a lynching took place in Gillette within a few hours. A man named Setwright became involved in an argument in one of Gillette’s saloons and broke a bottle over the head of another man. Deputy Sheriff C. Burnett stepped inside the saloon and arrested Setwright for his drunken behavior. Later that day, Mr. Weir, a respected town citizen, asked the deputy to release Setwright into his custody. The deputy agreed, and the two rode out of town together. A short time later, the mule Mr. Weir had been riding wandered back into Gillette. An immediate investigation produced Weir’s body, shot through the head, a short distance out of town. Deputy Burnett and several other men saddled their horses and took off in search of Setwright. He was captured about a mile and a half from Gillette and taken back to town. Gillette had no jail, so Setwright was placed inside the house of Col. Taylor and E. P. Rains until he could be taken to Prescott for trial.


    By now, word had spread of the recent murder and an angry mob of citizens began gathering outside the home where Setwright was being held. As time passed, the crowd became more and more angry and bent on dealing out their own punishment. Sheriff Burnett tried to calm the mob by telling them that Setwright would be taken to Prescott where law and justice would decide his fate. His protests failed and demands and threats from the excited crowd increased. They threatened to burn down or blow up the house unless Setwright was delivered to them. Col. Taylor, the homeowner, stepped outside with his double-barreled shotgun in an attempt stop the crowd. Someone in the crowd aimed a gun, a shot rang out and Col. Taylor slumped to the ground, dead. Realizing that it was impossible to defend his prisoner from the bloodthirsty mob, Deputy Burnett and Raines released him. The now terrified and sober Setwright was dragged from the house, and minutes later his body was swinging from the branch of a cottonwood tree on the banks of the Agua Fria River.

    Gillette’s lawless reputation grew through the years. The town was also known as the stage robber’s capital of Arizona. More than nine stagecoach robberies occurred a few miles north of Gillette.

    The Gillette silver mill served the town of Tip Top. Silver from the Tip Top mines was hauled nine miles over steep mountain roads to the mill. Once melted, it was shipped to San Francisco, again by wagon. Gillette was named after Dan B. Gillette, the Tip Top mine’s superintendent. The town’s lots sold for $100 each, with corner lots costing $350. Six streets, Main, California, North, Pine, Mill and Market, and five blocks comprised the town. There were shady streets with modest houses, several stores, a blacksmith, other businesses, four saloons, a post office and the fine Burfind Hotel. The town lacked a badly needed jail and church. Jack Swilling, the leader of the party that first settled the Phoenix area, lived here. One business was opened by Charles T. Hayden, father of Arizona’s Senator Carl Hayden.

    Gillette quickly declined after the Tip Top Mining Company moved its mill to the town of Tip Top in 1886. The town remained as a stopping place for stagecoaches until around 1912. Because stagecoaches had to cross the Agua Fria River to reach Gillette, other stops and forms of travel were preferred. Ultimately, the town dried up completely and blew away from the Arizona landscape. For a time the old hotel was used as a dude ranch. Today, all that remains is the old stage stop, hotel and a couple of other scattered stone buildings. The graveyard, where Setwright is probably buried, is located just east of the old hotel. Late 1800s trash can be found scattered across the entire townsite. If you stand quietly for a moment, you might hear the wind whisper, “Whoa,” and imagine a stagecoach pulling up in a cloud of dust, as a busy town moves about its business around you.""

  • 03-22-2008 1:28 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    What the hell, here's some more info about the Tip Top Mine from the same source (http://www.mrquigleyphotography.com/articles.htm):

    ""Last time we talked about Gillette, so I thought this time I would take you on a adventure over the old wagon haul road that led from Gillette into the rugged Bradshaw Mountains. This trip will require a 4-wheel drive vehicle in good condition. Be for-warned it’s a rough road adventure that should only be taken in cool months
     
    If planning to visit Gillette, you should also plan to stop at the ghost town of Tip Top. This was another very busy and crowded town, boasting a population of 1,200 people, the largest mining town in central Arizona. Named for a “tip top” silver prospect, this town boasted two hotels, two general stores, gin mills, six saloons, a Chinese laundry, butcher shop, stables/feed yard, two restaurants, blacksmith shop, post office, school, brothel, stage line to Prescott and even a shoe store. The town also had a courthouse where constable Joe Walker presided. Tip Top extended along Cottonwood Creek for three miles. Most of the businesses lined the creek below the Tip Top mine. Another downtown area, located above the gulch, consisted of a hotel and stores paralleling Grapevine Springs, the town’s water supply. At first, a mill was erected nine miles away, at Gillette. Wagon freight trains with 12 to 16 mules made daily trips through the mountains hauling silver to Gillette. Later, Tip Top built its own silver mill, and between 1878 to 1883 milled $1.5 million in silver.
     
    Many of Tip Top’s miners were veterans of the Civil War, both Union and Confederate. They got along well, even though everyone wore handguns because of the renegade Indians raiding in the area. A few killings were recorded during Tip Top’s history. Two people were killed in gunfights, another by lightning and a fourth by a centipede bite. As the centipede story goes, a miner arose early one morning and while putting on his boots was bitten on the toe by centipede. Not knowing what to do, he rushed to the closest saloon and gulped down a quart of whiskey. Townspeople were not sure if he died from the whiskey or the biter.
     
    Later, an old newspaper account stated that, “A good rain is needed badly in Tip Top to wash out the gulch, as the accumulation of filth is getting so strong that one can scarcely pass up the street.”
     
    Tip Toppers were known for their gambling and drinking. One lucky gambler made $9,700 in one week. Gamblers from all over Arizona traveled to the town and on the sixth of each month (payday for miners) would be waiting patiently in the many saloons for the naive miners. On many occasions, there were dances in the streets of Tip Top on pay day. Once, a minister from Phoenix came to Tip Top. With no church in town, he held services under a big cottonwood tree. All the townspeople came to hear him, sitting under the tree, drinking beer and thoroughly enjoying the sermon.
     
    When the federal government demonetized silver in 1893, Tip Top’s silver mines became worthless. Overnight Tip Top became a ghost town as miners moved on to gold strikes farther up in the Bradshaw Mountains. In 1910, after tungsten was discovered at the mines, they had a short-lived revival.
     
    Tip Top today is a quiet, abandoned ghost town. The mines and several stone buildings (brewery, restaurant and beer hall) still remain. Other stone homes and business are scattered over three miles around Tip Top. The foundations of the silver stamp mills, mining office and several other buildings all remain above the town. Tip Top’s mines are impressive and worth a careful visit. The many roads leading from the mines are actually a system of elaborate ore cart tracks. The graveyard lies upstream about .5 miles below the Seventy-Six mine on the north bank of Cottonwood Creek. It has more than 20 graves, with several small ones, probably children’s.
     
    The road to Tip Top requires four-wheel drive vehicles. It is a beautiful trip through canyons, creeks and ridges, decorated with saguaro and mesquite forests. From Gillette, travel west on the old Gillette road. This is the original wagon road over which silver was transported to Gillette for smelting. A little over three miles later you will come to a corral, make a left here and follow this road to Williams Mesa. Once on top you will have spectacular views of Cottonwood Creek to the west and the New River Mountains to the east. Off the west side of Williams Mesa, a rough road will take you down to Boulder Creek. This is a rocky, nasty road, so take your time. It’s hard to believe that heavily loaded wagons once used this route. Once at the bottom, in Boulder Creek, you come to a ‘T’ in the road; turn right. At this point, when you are on your way out, you can continue down Boulder Creek, instead of turning east and climbing the mountain back to Gillette. This road follows Boulder Creek and will eventually take you to the end of Lake Pleasant, (Agua Fria channel). You will pass the site of the old ranch home, originally part of the Boulder Creek Ranch. At Lake Pleasant, follow Table Mesa Road back to Interstate 17
     
    Now back to the ‘T’ in the road; follow this rough road for about another three miles before entering Tip Top. Exploring Tip Top is best done on foot, as the roads leading to the mines are in terrible shape and hard to turn around on. After exploring Tip Top, you can travel west again on the Tip Top road, which will eventually take you to the ghost camp of Packer, ( a old pack-mule-train stopping point on the way to Crown King) and finally on to Crown King, (Horse Thief Basin). The last time I went this way, I had to use an ATV to get to Crown King. I strongly recommend you do not travel this way by yourself, but rather in a group. The road that leads to Crown King is in extremely poor condition and can be a dangerous, as well as a long trip. There are several other roads west of Tip Top that lead to other mines. You can also follow a poor four-wheel-drive road to Columbia another ghost town that I will write about later. Travel safe, courteous & leave no trace.""


     

  • 03-22-2008 1:34 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Pirate Queen:

    Sounds like a nice day for a drive.  Might have to take a family picnic to the area.  Glad you found time to get out and enjoy yourself...

    Did you get your 4-wheel back?  What did they say?

    Hope you are back and rolling with the gang soon, we miss you!  At this point I miss all of us going out, it has been too long!

    DD

    Yeah, took it back and they found a wire that had been pinched, stripped, or something. They fixed it and things are good again Smile

    I'd recommend checking the area out before it gets too hot... although you could swim in the Agua Fria if it's too hot!

  • 03-25-2008 5:20 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    I always love your write ups about the trail and the history.  History always was one of my favorite things in school!  Excellent job, as always!

    DD

    Pirate Queen
  • 03-25-2008 5:22 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Glad to hear it was minor! 

    Thanks for the tip.  I believethat we, JD - the little Pirate in training -  and I, will have to make a run sometime!

    DD

    Pirate Queen
  • 03-28-2008 4:45 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Wow, AZTacoma, this sounds like a great place to explore and nice writeup!

    Since everyone cancelled the backside of Martinez at the last minute, I think I may venture off on this trail.

    Thanks for the info. 

    Ryan 

  • 03-28-2008 11:59 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    ryangibson:

    Wow, AZTacoma, this sounds like a great place to explore and nice writeup!

    Since everyone cancelled the backside of Martinez at the last minute, I think I may venture off on this trail.

    Thanks for the info. 

    Ryan 

    Trail Boss - what date are you talking about doing this run?

    JD

    2004 JEEP Rubicon a.k.a. "Ruby"

    Just Exploring Everything Possible 

  • 03-31-2008 12:25 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Just did it on Friday night and camped out. I relized that I had been back in the same area a year or so ago. Funny thing is THIS IS WHERE MY TRANSFER CASE TOOK A DUMP. So I can relate to AZTacoma's story.

    Took lots of photos that I will post shortly. Also here is a YouTube video of the river crossing.  

  • 03-31-2008 3:59 PM In reply to

    • Coma
    • Top 10 Contributor
    • Joined on 12-31-2007
    • Surprise, AZ
    • Posts 226

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Now that looks like a good time!

    Did that Dodge find another way to make it out?

     

  • 03-31-2008 6:23 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Silly People seem to think they can go anywhere a Jeep can...

    Who would own a Dodge truck anyway????  Oh, Yeah, ME... Glad that wasn't me! 

    Leave the Jeep'n thing up to the snorklers!  Yeah not me either!  Looks like fun!

    DD

    Pirate Queen
  • 03-31-2008 7:17 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    I bet my Dodge 2500 4x4 wouldn't have had any problems! It does need all-terrains though...

     

     

  • 03-31-2008 10:01 PM In reply to

    Re: 03-20-2008 Tip Top and Gillette

    Your taco would have made it. A big heavy truck, maybe.

    You have to learn what the mechanical capabilities of your vehicle are. This guy just happened to learn when someone had a camera Big Smile

    He did make it out but not after his buddy flooded his Honda 400. My camera lady failed to capture that, but I will have to forgive her... Although it would have been nice entertainment. 

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